Everyone in France has heard of Asterix - and millions of people beyond
France are familiar with Asterix the Gaul, his band of merry
men, and their exploits against the Roman invader, as detailed in the
classic series of cartoon books that began in the late nineteen
fifties, became cult reading in the sixties, and are still going
strong.
And as the maps in Asterix books remind the
reader, it is in the northwest tip of France that the famous resistance
village is to be found. Asterix and his tribe are Gauls, fighting a
rearguard action against the "Latin" invaders who had spread
across a large part of western Europe, with the extension of the Roman
empire. As in Britain, where the
ancient Celtic tribes were progressively forced back into the western
parts of the isles, the Celts of France were also pushed
towards the Atlantic by the westward thrust of Romans
and Germanic tribes such as the Franks, who eventually gave their name
to the land that the Romans had called Gallia - or Gaul - and which we
know today as France.
It was only in the
furthest northwestern extremity of France that the ancient Gauls, with
their Celtic language and culture, managed to survive; and they have
done so to this day, leaving Brittany - the land of the Bretons - as
the largest outstanding stronghold of Celtic heritage on the continent
of Europe. During the Dark
Ages after the fall of the Roman Empire, the Angles and
Saxons invaded Britain, forcing the British who previously
inhabited the whole island, to retreat again to their western
strongholds; a considerable number of them decided to do so by
emigrating south across the sea, to join their cousins in the northwest
part of Gaul; and so it was that Armorica,
as the area had been know until then, became the land of the Britons,
or as we now know it, Brittany.
The Bretons are thus the cousins of the Britons, and to this day
Brittany and the Celtic parts of the UK share much in common, including
similar languages.
If you happen to speak Welsh, you may get on well with Britanny's
Breton speakers. Indeed, about 250,000 people in Brittany speak or
understand Breton - generally as a second language, and Breton culture
and language have undergone a massive revival in the last thirty years,
even if they have not acquired the force and status that the Welsh
language has regained in Wales.
Bretons are proud
of their identity, and many think of themselves as Bretons
before calling themselves French. However, in centralised
France, devolution has not occurred to the same extent as in Britain,
and while the Breton language is taught in many schools, there is no
official Breton parliament, just a regional council that meets in Rennes.
Like
their cousins in the islands to the north, the ancient Bretons left to
posterity an impressive number of prehistoric sites, most famous of
which are the megaliths of Carnac (photoabove) in southern
Brittany, France's equivalent of Stonehenge, with its 3000 blocks of
granite. But throughout the region, there are dolmens and standing
stones whose origins are lost in the mists of time.
Brittany's
cultural identity - officially recognised by a charter signed in 1977 -
is expressed through folklore and customs which set it apart from the
rest of France. Scots visiting Brittany may be surprised to hear the
strains of bagpipes as they wander on holiday through a Breton market;
but bagpipes - called biniou
or cornemuse,
and harps are part of the Breton musical tradition, just as they are in
the other Celtic regions of Europe, from western Spain to northern
Scotland. Breton music went through a huge revival in the late 1960s
and 1970s, with the emergence on the music scene of Celtic rock, led by
Alan
Stivell, and a group known as Tri Yann, who achieved
international fame. Many others have taken up the tradition, and today
Celtic rock is a strong sector in contemporary French music. Throughout
Brittany, small festivals and other events strongly stress the region's
distinct Celtic heritage and cultural identity. The most importent
event in the annual calendar is however the annual InterCeltique
festival, which takes place each year in the
first half of August, in the port of Lorient.
Started in 1971 on the tide of enthusiasm for the Celtic revival music,
the Lorient festival is now one of France's great summer music
festivals, and attracts performers from all over the Celtic regions of
Europe, as well as over 600,000 visitors. It includes a Grand parade,
with marching bands and musicians from Brittany and other Celtic
regions too