The Auvergne is not
renowned as one of the most famous regions of France in terms of wining
and dining; but like many other regions of the world, it is nonetheless
a region with plenty to offer when it comes to regional specialities.
The region also produces some very reasonable wines, and is relatively
well endowed in good restaurants.....
Auvergne regional specialities: on this page....
A profoundly rural and mountainous region, the Auvergne is one of the
leading French regions (some indeed claim that it is the leading
region) when it comes to cheese. A cheeseboard made up exclusively of
Auvergne cheeses can hold its own against a board of cheeses from any
other French region, both in terms of variety and of quality.
The principal
cheeses of the Auvergne:
Pressed
cheeses:
Cantal
A very tasty uncooked pressed cheese from the Auvergne mountains,
Cantal is a cheese that many consider to be quite close to an
English farmhouse cheddar or chester. A lot of this
"appellation contrôlée" cheese is made on farms, but local
dairies in the region also produce it in large quantities. (Some also
produce Cheddar for export to the UK!)
Cantal comes most commonly in two varieties:
"jeune" (young) and "entre deux" (between two), meaning cheese that has
matured for longer. This cheese's strength and taste increase with
ageing, and generally speaking cantal cheese is stronger than cheddar.
Two smaller areas within the Cantal department
produce specific appellations of their own,
Salers and
Laguiole. These
cheeses - made from the milk of cows grazing at high altitude, tend to
be more expensive than generic Cantal, and are generally aged longer.
They are unpasturised cheeses made only during the summer, and only
from the milk of cows grazing in the high pastures.
Blue
cheeses
Bleu
d'Auvergne / Auvergne blue ; Possibly the most famous of
all French blue cheeses, Bleu d'Auvergne is manufactured through most
of upland Auvergne. It is a cheese that can vary considerably in taste
and strength, depending on how old it is and how it has matured; but a
good Auvergne Blue can be spread on bread like butter.
La Fourme
d'Ambert is a mild blue cheese , often with an
almost nutty flavour. No-one should find this too strong. It is
produced in the sector of Ambert in the Forez mountains of the
Puy de Dôme.
Soft
cheeses.
Saint Nectaire
(AOC) can be one of the greatest of French cheeses - but it is
also a cheese that varies considerably in quality and taste. To start
with there are two distinct types, the farm variety and the dairy
variety. The farm variety is generally better and more expensive, the
dairy variety, usually found in supermarkets, is frequently sold too
young. When this cheese is young, it is quite dry and hard; a properly
matured Saint Nectaire should be soft and elastic, with a slight
tendency to flow if left at room temperature. One does not eat the rind
of a Saint Nectaire.,
Some
other Auvergne cheeses
Savaron;
is a dairy cheese that is quite similar to
dairy-produced Saint Nectaire, and is an appellation contrôlée
cheese dating from 1945.
Bleu de
Laqueille; is the original Auvergne blue cheese; legend
has it that a farmer, called Antoine Roussel, produced the
first Lequeille blue in 1850, after leaving a lump of fresh cottage
cheese in a draw with some crumbs of mouldy bread.
Another similar cheese is
Montagne,
which closely resembles Savaron.
Les vins d'Auvergne
Auvergne does not produce any Appellation Contrôlée (AOC) wines, but
several
VDQS
wines (Vin délimité de qualité supérieure), the best-known of which are
from
Saint-Pourçain sur
Sioule, in the Allier department; these are light red and
white wines, from the Gamay, Tressalier, Chardonnay and Pinot
noir grape varieties.
Further south in the Puy de Dôme, the
Côtes d'Auvergne
area, lying between the villages of Madargues
(north of Riom) & Boudes (south of Clermont
Ferrand) produces mostly light red wines.
Here and there, in areas lying below about 600 metres, there are other
small vineyards, mostly producing for local and individual consumption
and on a very small scale. For example, the Allier Valley area, between
Brioude and Langeac in the haute Loire, was a big wine-growing area
until the late 19th century; it was the last wine-growing area in
France to be killed off by the Phylloxera epidemic that totally
destroyed French vineyards in the late 19th century.
Auvergne's
vineyards are among the oldest in France, and in the
Middle Ages they supplied a lot of wine to Paris and the north of
France. The wine was shipped down the Allier and Loire rivers on rafts,
as far as Orleans, where it was despatched by road to Paris. By the
time it reached Orleans, some of the wine was quite undrinkable, and
could not be sent on to the capital - which explains why the city of
Orleans is now famed throughout France as the nation's vinegar capital.
Auvergne specialities
Les lentilles
du Puy / le Puy lentils
Cultivated
for over 2000 years in the region of Le Puy en Velay, the "green
lentils" are still produced using no chemical fertilizers. The
"Appellation contrôlée" production area covers 88 communes in
the Haute Loire department, from Saint Georges
d'Aurac or Retournac in the north, to Pradelles in the south. Lentils
are an extremely nutritious and tasty vegetable, and a rich source of
vegetable protein.
La potée
auvergnate / Auvergne hotpot
La potée auvergnate is a classic country dish made up of simple and
easily available ingredients; cabbages, potatoes, bacon, pork and
sausage. Sometimes white beans are added. After an initial stewing, the
cabbages are removed from the pot, then drained and fried up with
pieces of bacon. .
Les Tripoux
Auvergne tripe...
Pounti
A delicious type of meat loaf, with herbs, and stuffed with prunes.
This speciality of the Cantal can be eaten hot or cold.
Auvergne
ham
Cured raw ham from the mountains of Auvergne. In some rural inns, you
can still get ham that has been produced and cured on the spot or in
the local village.